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Grooming a Horse

It is necessary to regularly groom your horse not only to keep him clean but also to inspect him to ensure that he is healthy and not injured in any way. You should groom, or at least, check your horse every day even if you do not ride. He must be clean before he is ridden or tacked up, to prevent sores caused by the tack rubbing against his dirty or muddy skin. Over the years many new products have been introduced to the market that horse owners feel they just have to buy for their ever-expanding grooming box. However, we have listed below the essential items that every grooming tote should contain.

Basic Items of a Grooming Kit

  • body brush - a soft bristled brush used for removing dust and scurf from the coat, mane, and tail. It usually has a flat back and broad, material handle. I particularly like the flexible type of body brush as it contours to the horse's body better than a regular kind. Do not use on grass kept horses as it removes too much of the natural oils that keep a horse warm and dry.
  • curry comb - the metal type of curry comb is used for cleaning the body brush and should never be used on a horse. Plastic curry comb and rubber curry combs are also be used for this purpose but can be used on a grass kept horse to remove dry mud.
  • cactus cloth or all-purpose grooming mitt - this is a slightly abrasive cloth that is used to remove dry mud or sweat marks
  • dandy brush - a hard bristled dandy brush is used for removing heavy dirt, dried mud, and sweat marks. It is most useful on a grass kept horse. Do not use on a clipped horse, a horse with sensitive skin, or on any part of their face as it is too harsh. Some of the modern dandy brushes on the market have soft bristles and do not work well for this purpose.
  • hoof pick - used for picking out the feet. If you get a hoof pick with the bristles opposite the pick it can also be used to clean the outside of the hooves.
  • hoof oil and brush - hoof oil is used for oiling the hooves to protect them from cracking and splitting (usually in summer) or too much moisture (usually in winter).
  • mane comb - use a mane comb to pull and braid manes. I like this style of mane comb with a long handle as I find it easier to hold. Do not use combs to de-tangle tails as they break the hairs.
  • massage pad - used to massage your horse's muscles, especially after exercise, and to promote circulation (see strapping below).
  • sponges - you will need, at the very least, two sponges. One for cleaning around the face; eyes, nose, and muzzle, and one for cleaning the dock.
  • sweat scraper - to remove surplus water or sweat. These aren't used in everyday grooming. There are two types to choose from. The half-moon style or, my favorite, the metal sweat scraper.
  • water brush - a soft bristled brush to dampen down the mane and tail and wash the feet. You could also use a sponge for this job if you prefer.

There are other items you may need in your grooming kit depending on the time of year and discipline that your ride, and area of the country you live, for example - fly repellent, elastic bands or needle and thread for braiding, scissors and clippers for trimming, etc. The list could go on and depends very much on what you feel you need. Horses that live most of their lives in a stable should be groomed thoroughly every day. Horses kept at grass do not need that much attention as too much grooming will remove the grease naturally present in the horse's coat. The grease helps to keep them warm and dry. You should wash your grooming kit once a week in warm soapy water. A mild disinfectant may be added. Once you have washed the dandy brush you should dip the bristles in cold water. This helps to keep them stiff. It is important to keep your grooming supplies clean as you can not clean a horse with dirty brushes. Grooming a Horse Before you begin to groom your horse he should be tied up correctly as described in the previous blog post Correctly Handling Horses. Do not try to groom a horse who is loose in a field or stable. If they try to get away from you, you will have no control over them. If you do groom them in their stable be sure to remove all food, water, and buckets to prevent them from becoming contaminated with dust and dirt.

How to Groom a Horse

There are four different types of grooming. Whenever grooming a horse make sure that he is comfortable at all times. If the weather is cold and he is wearing a blanket unbuckle it and fold it in half keeping it on his rear end. Brush the forehand on both sides before replacing the blanket, then fold it up over the forehand and brush his hind end. This prevents him from getting cold.

Quartering

This process is a quick brush with a dandy brush and curry comb to remove stable stains and make him presentable and clean enough to ride. Horses that are clipped have sensitive skin. A cactus cloth instead of a dandy brush as it isn't as harsh. Sponge his eyes, nose, and dock, and pick out his feet. Quartering is adequate for a horse that lives outside in a field. Depending on which part of the country you live in or what time of year it is you might also need to check him for ticks and spray him to repel flies in summer.

Full Groom

A full groom is best done after exercise and is described below in the Method of Grooming section. Grooming is more effective when the horse is warm as his pores will be open. Full grooming is not recommended for grass kept horses as it removes too much of the natural grease that keeps the horse warm and dry.

Strapping

This is a massage used to harden and develop muscles on stabled horses in consistent work. It invigorates the blood supply to the skin and makes the coat shine. Originally a wisp made of woven hay or straw would have been used but nowadays most people use a soft massage pad with rollers (see the image of Basic Items for a Grooming Kit). Slap the muscles in a regular rhythm in the direction the coat lays. Only massage the muscles on the neck, shoulder, quarters, and thighs. Do not use on an unfit horse as their muscles aren't strong enough for a vigorous massage.

Bush-Over or Set-Fair

For a stabled horse, at the end of the day, you should lightly brush him over when you straighten or change the blankets. This is the time that you also remove any droppings from his stall and tidy his bedding to make him comfortable for the night.

Method of Full Grooming

  • picking out the feet - using the hoof pick, pick up his feet one at a time. First, talk to him then face his tail. Start with his front leg and run your hand, closest to his body, down the back of his leg. When you reach the fetlock say 'up' and squeeze the joint. Catch and support his leg under the hoof. If he doesn't lift his leg you may need to lean gently against him with your shoulder to push his weight onto this other leg. Pick the hoof from heel to toe making sure you avoid the frog (the softer triangular, center of the hoof). Make sure you carefully clean the cleft of the frog (the groove down the middle), and the bars down the side.

To pick up the rear foot stand next to his hip facing his tail. Speak to him and run your hand, nearest to him, down the back of his leg to the point of the hock. Then move your hand to the front of the cannon bone. When you reach the fetlock say 'up'. When he lifts his leg place your hand under the hoof from the inside. Do not lift it too high or pull it too far back as this will make him unbalanced. If he doesn't immediately lift his foot you may need to lean slightly against his hip to push his weight onto his other foot. Most well-trained horses will anticipate the next leg you need him to pick up and raise it slightly ready for you.

Look for any signs of injury or thrush. Save time by picking into a skip (small, low container). This keeps the dirt out of the bedding if you are in the stall and saves you from having to sweep up no matter where you are. Tap on the shoe to make sure it is not loose.

  • dandy brush - for a grass-kept horse you should use the dandy brush all over his body to remove dried mud and caked on dirt. It can be held in either hand. Start at the poll on the left (near) side and work over all the body and down the legs. Use short, flicking strokes to get all the dirt out from the long hair. Do not brush too hard on sensitive areas. On a stabled or clipped horse, the dandy brush is only used where his coat is long. With the introduction of the rubber and plastic curry comb, some people prefer to use them at this point in the grooming process.
  • cactus cloth - this can be used on a stabled or clipped horse, instead of the dandy brush, to remove stable stains, dirt, and sweat marks. It can also be used on horses with sensitive skin.
  • body brush and curry comb - the body brush is the main brush used on a stabled horse. It's used to remove dirt, dust, and scurf from the skin. The curry comb is used to keep it clean.

Start with the mane. Throw the mane over to the opposite side of where it would normally lay. Brush the crest and exposed neck area. Then gradually pull the mane back a little at a time and brush through each section.

Once the mane is done work on the rest of the neck and progress down to the shoulders. Use short movements with enough pressure to penetrate through the hair to the skin. After every few strokes scrape the body brush against a curry comb to clean it. When you are grooming the left side of the horse the body brush should be in your left hand and the curry comb in your right. Switch them over to the other hands when you groom the right side. Use the body brush all over the horse including the legs.

The body brush can also be used on the head and forelock. When brushing the face untie the horse. You don't want him to suddenly pull back and feel like he can't get away. You can leave the lead rope threaded through the breakable string and hold onto the loose end. If you are using cross-ties unclip them and clip the lead rope onto the 'O' ring. Unfasten the halter and temporarily place it around the horse's neck. Hold the lead rope with one hand and gently brush his face with the other hand.

The body brush can also be used on the tail. If the tail is very tangled use your fingers to tease out the knots before brushing. Never use a metal comb on the tail as it breaks the hairs. Stand to one side facing backward when brushing the tail. The only time you should ever stand directly behind a horse is when applying a tail bandage.

  • sponges - dampen one of the sponges and clean his eyes, nostril, and muzzle. With the other sponge wipe underneath his tail and the dock area. It's a good idea for the sponges to be different colors so that you don't get them mixed up. They must be cleaned regularly.
  • water brush - use the water brush to 'lay' the mane and tail. Dip it in a bucket of water and shake off any excess. Dampen down any stray hairs on the mane. You can also use it to lay down the hairs at the top of the tail. This would be the time you would apply a tail bandage if necessary.
  • hoof oil and brush - when the feet are clean and dry you may paint them with hoof oil. It is beneficial in summer when hooves tend to be dry and brittle and also in winter when the ground is wet. This also helps with the overall appearance when a horse is being formally inspected.

How to Wash a Horse

Although we all do it, it is not recommended that you wash your entire horse. Shampoo, no matter how mild, strips the coat and skin of oils that naturally provide protection against wind, rain, and flies. If you must wash your horse he will need to be blanketed for about a week until the oils return if he will be outside in inclement weather.

Washing the Mane

Before you begin to wash the mane you should brush it thoroughly with the body brush (see the body brush and curry comb section above) or a human hairbrush. Wash stalls are becoming more popular and make washing the mane much easier. If you do not have access to a wash stall you can use a bucket of warm water and a large sponge or water brush. Either way, wet the mane thoroughly starting at the withers.

If using a hose run the water onto the horse's front leg first and gradually move up his shoulder to the withers. This way it doesn't come as too much of a surprise to him. Pull the forelock back through his ears to join the top of the mane. Use a sponge or water brush to help the water to penetrate deep into the mane. Once the mane is thoroughly wet use a mild shampoo and work it into the mane. When you have washed the entire mane rinse it thoroughly starting at the poll.

Be careful not to get soap or water in the horse's eyes or ears. Make sure the water runs clear and is free of any shampoo. Use the sweat scraper to remove the excess water from your horse's neck. Some people like to also use a conditioner. This gives the mane a soft fluffy appearance but doesn't work well if you plan to braid.

Washing the Tail

As mentioned above this is easier if you have access to a wash stall but can still be done with a bucket and large sponge or water brush. As with the mane, make sure that the tail has been brushed through thoroughly with a body brush or human hairbrush before you begin to wash it.

Wet the tail thoroughly either with the hose or by submerging it in the bucket. You need to know your horse well and how he will react before attempting either of these procedures. Whenever the dock of a horse is thoroughly wetted the horse usually buckles slightly with their back legs and appear as if they will fall down. This passes quickly and helps if you speak gently to them to reassure them that everything is ok. If you are using warm water this is less likely to happen as it won't be too much of a shock to the horse.

When the tail is completely wet, shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Squeeze out excess water with your hands and swing the tail gently to remove any remaining water. If you want to apply conditioner to the bottom of the tail you can do so and rinse it thoroughly. Do not apply it to the top as it will give it a 'fly away' look. While the tail is still damp apply a tail bandage.

Washing the Feet

Do not wash your horse's feet too often as overexposure to moisture is not good for them. Sometimes, however, it is necessary to remove excess mud. Use the water brush dipped in warm water. Using the thumb on your hand, that is holding up the foot, press it into the hollow of the heel to prevent water from seeping in there. If your horse's feet need to be washed in winter or if they are likely to be wet regularly smear petroleum jelly onto the heel to help prevent cracked heels or scratches.

Washing a Horse

If you really must wash your horse make sure it is on a warm day when he won't become chilled. Start with the mane and work down one side. Wet, wash, rinse, and use the sweat scraper as you go. Do not allow him to stand completely wet or allow the shampoo to dry on his skin. Finish with his tail. Be sure to offer extra protection until the natural oils return.

Previous Blog - Correctly Handling Horses
Next Blog - Basic Horse Equipment and Use

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What to Buy your Horse Show Dad for Father's Day

Father's Day is quickly approaching (June 16th, 2019) but there is still time to buy something special for your horse show dad.

Some dads understand that learning to ride is so much more than just learning to ride. They recognize that being around horses and helping at the barn also instills compassion, empathy, teamwork, hard work, coordination, and so much more. These dedicated dads don't mind getting up early or going to bed late so their child can have extra time with their horse. They learned how to tow a trailer and load a horse just so their child can compete in shows. Their dedication and commitment to their equestrian should be recognized regularly but even more so on Father's Day.

What does your horse show dad need?

 

T-Shirt - Of course no horse show dad would be complete without the obligatory horse show dad t-shirt.
photo album horse show dad Photo Album - These days most people store their photos on their phone. A great way to memorialize your time spent with your dad is to get him a photo album of your journey together. This self-adhesive photo album makes it easy to present your photos and mementos. Try this link to order prints from your phone.
yeti horse show dad Drink Container - All equestrians know that barn time is not the same as regular time. Especially during long hot days at the barn in summer, it is important to stay hydrated. Get your dad a 26oz Yeti Rambler. I have one of these and can tell you it keeps my drink cold all day long.
Fitbit - If your dad is a fitness freak or just wants to get fitter a Fitbit is a great idea. He will be able to track his steps, exercise, and calorie intake. They are fun to use and can be synced to a smartphone.
Overnight Bag - Oftentimes showing requires overnight stays. Your dad should travel in style, just like you and your horse. A versatile overnight bag is an ideal gift and a great way to say thank you.

I'm sure that horse show dads are happy with their role and get immense satisfaction from spending time with and watching their equestrian learn and grow. However, it is still important to show some extra love on Father's Day.

Look for other great gifts here>>>

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Basic Horse Equipment and Use

The kind of horse equipment you need will depend on which equine activity you participate in. This blog concentrates on the basic horse equipment needed to safely enjoy and ride your horse.

Horse equipment is called saddlery or more commonly, tack. It consists of a saddle (fitted with a girth, stirrup leathers, and stirrup irons) and a bridle with an appropriate bit.

Leatherwork

The best material for tack is good quality leather. Cheap tack is often low-quality leather. It can be hard and brittle and not last as long. Tack is an expensive investment but if looked after correctly it can last you a very long time.

It is vital that:

  • the tack fits the horse and rider (more about this in an upcoming blog)
  • it is the correct type for the job you and your horse will be doing
  • you take good care of it by regularly cleaning it (more about this in an upcoming blog)

Buying Used Tack

Make sure that the leather is good quality and in good condition. Stitching should be strong and not perished. It is imperative when buying a used saddle that the tree is not broken or twisted. To check for a broken tree hold the cantle of the saddle against your hip and try to pull the pommel towards you. If it is a fixed tree there shouldn't be any movement at all. If it is a spring tree you should feel a gentle flexing that springs back into place when you release the pressure. To check for a twisted tree look from the cantle towards the pommel to make sure they are in line with each other. Also, check that the front arch under the pommel does not move or make a noise when you put pressure downwards onto it. Wrinkled or stretched leather on the seat can indicate there is probably some internal damage to the saddle and you shouldn't buy it.

Synthetic Tack

Synthetic tack is becoming more and more popular and can be a cheaper alternative. It is also lighter than leather which makes it easier for children to handle. If you do decide to buy synthetic tack make sure it is a reputable make as some of the non-named brands are cheaply made and do not last very long. I personally do not like synthetic tack but I have friends who swear by it so it really is a personal decision.

Metalwork

The metalwork on your saddle and bridle (stirrup irons, buckles, bits, etc.) should be made of top quality steel. Stainless steel is the best as it resists staining and discoloration, doesn't chip or flake, and is very durable. Nickel (often found on cheap tack) can be dangerous as it is much softer and can bend or break.

Bridles

The Parts of a Bridle and Functions

  • Headpiece and Throatlash - made from one piece of leather. Together with the cheek pieces, the headpiece supports the bit. The throatlash helps to keep the bridle in place by fastening loosely under the horse's throat. When fitted correctly you should be able to fit four fingers, sideways, between the leather and the horse's neck.
  • Browband - this lies across the brow of the horse and prevents it from slipping back. It should be tight enough so as not to sag away from the head but not so tight that it causes the headpiece to rub the back of the ears.
  • Cheekpieces - these attach to the headpiece at the top and the bit at the bottom. They should be snug enough to hold the bit in place but not so tight that the bit pulls up into the horse's mouth.
  • Bit - the bit attaches to the cheekpieces and reins. It should protrude about a ¼ inch or the width of your little finger at each side of the horse's mouth. When the bridle is on the horse the bit should make the horse look as if he is very slightly smiling. Bits can be made of copper, sweet iron, or aurigan to give the bit a more palatable taste for the horse and encourage salivation. For a more robust feel, some horses prefer a bit made of vulcanized rubber. Often times you will have to try a few different bits before you find one your horse really likes.
  • Reins - attach to the bit and are used to help steer the horse. They are available in different types of material.
    • Plain leather - they look very smart but can be slippery when wet
    • Leather With Grips - these have good grip but only at certain intervals along them so can be restrictive for subtly altering the amount of contact
    • Laced or Plaited - less slippery than plain leather but more expensive and more difficult to clean
    • Rubber Over Leather - these give the best grip especially in rain or on a sweaty horse. One option with these reins is Rainbow Reins with bands of different colors. These are great for teaching novice riders where to hold the reins.
    • Rubber Reins - usually used with a rubber (rather than leather) bridle. They are very easy to keep clean as you can wash them with soap and water but are slippery and not very pliable
    • Nylon Reins - not very popular with English riders anymore
  • Noseband - the cavesson noseband is the standard type and the only kind to which a standing martingale can be attached. You should be able to fit two fingers under it at the nose. There should be a 'two-fingered' space under the projecting cheekbone.

Parts Of A Bridle

Parts of a Bridle

Saddles

There are many different makes and models of saddles available. The main types are:

  • Jumping Saddle (Close Contact) - has a flat seat with the panels cut forwards. Designed for riding with shorter stirrup leathers it can have large knee-rolls which help to keep the rider's legs in the correct place.
  • Dressage Saddle - has a deep seat and straight cut flaps. It usually has extra long billets and uses a shorter dressage girth. This design allows the rider to sit deep with the correct leg position.
  • General Purpose - designed for general riding it is shaped between a dressage saddle and a jumping saddle. Due to the fact that tack is so expensive, most pleasure riders use a general purpose saddle

Saddle Sizes

It is important that the saddle fits both the horse and the rider. (More about this in a later blog).

Saddles are measured from the pommel to the cantle. Standard sizes are 15" - 18". On saddles with a cut back head, measure from the stud at the side of the pommel to the cantle. The size of the saddle is determined, generally by the size of the rider but should never be too long on a horse's back as it would put too much pressure on his kidneys.

They are available in three widths - narrow, medium, and wide. Some pony saddles are also available in extra wide. The width is determined by the shape of the horse's back and withers.

Anatomy Of A Saddle

Tree

The tree is the foundation of the saddle and is usually made of laminated wood but plastic and fiberglass are also used. A spring-tree saddle has a strip of flexible steel in the tree on both sides of the waist which gives the saddle a less rigid feel for both horse and rider but they are more expensive to buy. Quality saddles are usually stamped with the name or logo of the manufacturer on the panel along with the size. Sometimes it is on a metal plate. On older saddles, this was stamped onto the stirrup-bar.

Seat

The seat is the top of the saddle, between the pommel and cantle, where the rider sits. It is formed by strips of webbing stretched across the tree. It is then padded and covered with leather or a synthetic material. The deeper the seat the more secure the rider will be.

Girth Straps Or Billets

These are attached to the webbing strips that form the seat. The first strap is attached to one piece of webbing and the second and third straps are attached to another. For safety reasons, you should always attach your girth to the first strap and either the second or third, never the second and third.

Stirrup-Bars

These are attached to the tree. They should be open-ended to allow the stirrup-leathers to slide off should the rider fall from the horse and get their foot stuck in the stirrup. On most saddles, the stirrup-bars have a hinge that can be turned up to prevent the stirrups from falling off a horse that is being lead or lunged. NEVER ride with the bar turned up. Bars that are not open-ended or are in the shape of a sideways D (usually on a pony pad) should never be used without safety stirrups.

Panel

This is the underside of the saddle that lies against the horse's sides. Some panels have knee rolls at the front and some even have thigh rolls behind the rider's leg, all designed help keep the rider's leg in the optimal position. It usually comes down almost to the bottom of the saddle flap. A half-panel reaches halfway down the saddle flap and has a large sweat flap to stop the girth buckle from pinching the horse's skin. These are not very common anymore.

Flap

The flap is the outer part, that covers the panel, where the rider's leg lies. The size and shape is determined by the style and use of the saddle as it helps position the rider's leg correctly.

Gullet

The gullet is actually the space between the bars of the saddle but is generally known as the space under the saddle and rests above the horse's spine. There should be enough clearance so that no part of the saddle is ever in contact with the horse's spine. The width of some saddles can be altered with interchangeable gullets.

Waist Or Twist

This is between the seat and the pommel. The size of the waist can greatly affect the comfort of the saddle for the rider.

Pommel

The very front of the saddle. It is higher than the seat and helps provide stability for the rider. It needs to be high enough so that it does not rub against the horse's withers. The pommel of a jumping saddle is lower than that of a dressage saddle allowing the rider to ride in two-point (forward) position.

Cantle

The back of the saddle that is higher than the seat. It, along with the pommel, gives the rider security in the saddle.

Skirt

A small piece of leather that covers the stirrup bar to help prevent rubbing on the inside of the rider's leg.

Stuffing

The stuffing in a saddle is normally wool, synthetic, foam, or felt. The saddle should be stuffed evenly and never feel lumpy. As saddles get older they sometimes need re-stuffing. This can also be called re-flocking.

D Rings

Metal rings attached to the saddle and used to attach various items. The ones on the front are mainly used to connect a breastplate. They are also useful for attaching a strap for novice riders who are learning to balance and riding on the lunge. The ones on the sides near the seat can be used for saddle bags. Not all saddles have the rear D rings.

Parts Of A SaddleParts of a Saddle, Horse EquipmentIMAGE OF A SADDLE

Girths

This is what holds the saddle in place so it is vital that it fits comfortably and correctly. The size is measured from end to end including the buckles. They can be made from many different materials.

  • Leather - if correctly looked after these look very smart and are comfortable for the horse but are expensive to buy.
  • Three-Fold - is a single piece of soft leather, cut straight and folded to form three layers with two buckles at each end. Between the folds, there should be a piece of flannel or other material, which should be soaked occasionally in neatsfoot oil to keep the leather soft. The folded edge should be towards the front of the horse.
  • Balding - one piece of leather with two buckles on each end. The center part is divided into three strips. They are crossed over and stitched in the middle. This reduces the width of the girth behind the elbow of the horse where it could cause girth galls. Because the leather is in strips make sure they do not pinch the horse's skin between them.
  • Atherstone - made of one piece of leather with two buckles on each end, it is shaped similar to the Balding but it has a leather strip stitched down the center on the outside to hold the shape. This style also helps prevent girth galls.
  • Fleece - this is a synthetic material with a fleece lining designed to wick away moisture from the horse's skin. These are popular with hunt seat riders.
  • Dressage - these girths also come in various different materials and are usually much shorter than regular girths as the billets on a dressage saddle are longer.

Stirrup Irons

These should be made of stainless steel and be the correct size for the person riding the horse. They should allow ½" at each side of the rider's boot. Rubber treads help to stop the foot from slipping. It is very dangerous for a person to ride with stirrups that are too big, allowing their foot to slip all the way through. Children and small adults who, if they got their foot caught in the stirrup and fell off, might not be heavy enough to pull the stirrup leather off the stirrup bar should use safety stirrups.

  • Peacock or Safety Stirrups - these stirrups have a thick roll of rubber along the outside of the iron. This rubber will easily snap off if someone falls from the horse making it far less likely that they will get their foot caught in the stirrup. The disadvantages are that it does not hang level as it is heavier on one side. The rubber perishes over time and needs to be replaced. They have also been known to bend under extreme pressure.
  • Bent Leg - these have a curve or bend on one side. The bend should be to the outside and bend towards the front. They hang straighter than the Peacock style but you may find that your foot slips out of them until you get used to how they feel.

It is essential to use a safety stirrup with a saddle that does not have an open-ended stirrup bar.

Stirrup Leathers

The stirrup leather passes through the stirrup bar and the gap in the top of the stirrup iron. They have a buckle to adjust the length. All leather stretches over time so make sure the holes are still level on each one. It is a good idea to regularly swap over the left and right leathers as the left one will stretch more because of the rider mounting from that side. Stirrup leathers should be shortened periodically at the buckle end so that they don't always wear in the same place. They can be made of different types of leather and other materials.

  • Ordinary Leather - if this is top quality leather it looks the smartest but can break under extreme pressure. They are usually used for showing.
  • Rawhide - these are virtually unbreakable and usually used by cross country riders. They can look thick and clumsy.
  • Buffalo Hide - these are also virtually unbreakable but are reddish in color and don't always match the color of the saddle. They are more prone to stretching than other leathers.
  • Synthetic - made from a synthetic material they are easy to clean. The thin material kind are flexible but crack and flake easily. The thick rubber kind aren't very pliable making it difficult to adjust the length.

Martingales

There are four different types of martingales. They are all used to help control the horse.

  • Running - this is attached to the girth and passes between the forelegs and through the neck strap. It then splits into two and each piece has a ring on the end. The reins pass through the rings. When fitted correctly the ring should reach up into the horse's throat or back to the withers. It should only come into play if the horse lifts his head too high. It should not be used to keep the horse's head down. The buckle on the neck strap should be on the left side and allow four fingers clearance between the strap and the withers. The straps with the rings on should not be twisted when passing the reins through.
  • Standing - this is attached to the girth and passes between the forelegs and through the neck strap. It is then attached to the back of a cavesson noseband (or the cavesson part of a flash noseband). It should be long enough to reach up to the horse's throat or back to the withers. The buckle on the neck strap should be on the left side and allow four fingers clearance. It is used to stop the horse from raising his head above the level of control. A standing martingale is more restrictive than a running martingale.
  • Irish - this is two rings connected with a strap approximately 4" long. It is used under the horse's neck with the reins passed through it. It is used to keep the reins in place and close to the horse's neck and to help prevent them from coming over the horse's neck should the rider fall off. It is often used in horse racing.
  • Bib - this is a combination of a running and Irish martingale. A bib fills the space where the running martingale divides into two. It is fitted the same way as a running martingale and has the same effect but also keeps the reins closer together.

Breastplate

There are various different types of breastplate but they are all designed to prevent the saddle from slipping backward. They attached to the D rings on the front of the saddle and between the forelegs and onto the girth. They should be tight enough to be effective but not so tight that they interfere with the horse's movement.

Crupper

This is used to stop a saddle or roller from slipping forwards. It is a loop that fits around the horse's dock and a strap which fastens onto the D ring on the back of the cantle. The part that fits around the dock can be made of soft folded leather but the more expensive ones are hollowed leather filled with crushed linseed which, when warmed by the horse's body heat, releases oil through the leather which reduces the chance of rubbing. They are most often used on small ponies with flat withers.

Saddle Pads

These come in all shapes and sizes and are used, under a saddle, to provide extra padding and to keep the underside of the saddle clean. They are fitted with webbing on each side and at the bottom. One saddle billet should pass through the webbing at the top and the girth should pass through the webbing at the bottom. This helps prevent the pad from slipping backward. When tacking up pull the pad up into the gullet of the saddle so that it doesn't put pressure on the horse's spine. Also, make sure that it lies flat under the saddle. If it is wrinkled in any way it will be uncomfortable and could cause pressure points on the horse's back. Pads can be fitted or rectangular in shape. Fitted pads should be the correct size for the saddle and be slightly bigger, about 2" all the way around. Generally, fitted pads are used for hunt seat riding whereas rectangular pads are used for dressage, jumpers, and cross country.

Types of Saddle Pads

  • Cotton Covered Foam - these are very popular and available in many different colors. They are easy to look after and can be machine washed. They are only semi-absorbent and shouldn't be used if they are damp. They should be washed regularly.
  • Sheepskin - these are the best as it is a natural fiber and absorbs sweat easily however they are expensive to buy.
  • Synthetic Sheepskin - these vary in price and quality. The types that absorb sweat are suitable but the other kinds should be avoided.
  • Felt - although not used very often anymore they are absorbent and good at minimizing pressure or concussion. They are expensive and difficult to keep clean.

No matter what kind of riding you do or what kind of tack you own it is very important to look after it and keep it clean and in good repair.

Previous Blog: Grooming A Horse
Next Blog: Tacking-up, Removing, and Maintaining Tack (Coming soon)

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Twelve Equestrian Products I Love

horse products
Our Shetland, White Rose Buttercup

More and more equestrian companies are inventing and developing new and innovative equestrian products and trying to convince us that we can not live without them. Some are useful, others, not so much.

Over the years I have amassed a large collection of equestrian items. Some have proven to be invaluable whereas others were a waste of money.

I have put together, in no particular order, a list the 12 equestrian products (and some non-equestrian products) that I use on a regular basis that help me do my job.

  1. Fly Spray - I have tried every fly-spray available. Some work better than others. Some don't work at all. The thing I don't like about, most, of the commercially available products, are the chemicals used to kill or repel flies. This is why we decided to create our own. 49% water, 49% white vinegar, 2% cedar oil. Mix together in a large container and put into spray bottles. It not only smells good but it is also harmless to the horses and can safely be used on people.
  2. Fly Masks - No matter how well your fly spray works the effect only lasts a certain amount of time. During the hot summer months, when flies are more prevalent, our horses are in their stalls relaxing under the welcome breeze of their stall fans (see #3). They spend the nights out in the pastures. To give them relief from flies and gnats, after the fly spray has worn off, we make sure they each have a carefully fitted fly mask. I prefer the kind that covers the horse's ears to keep out the annoying bugs.
  3. Stall Fans - Our stall fans are invaluable in the blistering heat of the summer. They keep the air circulating in the barn and help to keep the horses cool and stress-free. Having heard so many horror stories of box fans catching fire we invested in some high efficiency, closed motor fans. Yes, they are more expensive but even on the lowest setting, they are more powerful than a regular box fan. They are also safer as dust cannot get into the moving parts of the motor.
  4. Hose Reel - Not only is it dangerous but it also looks unsightly to have a water hose strewn across the barn aisle. At each end of our barn, we have a hose that we use to fill and wash water buckets and also bathe horses. When it's not in use it is carefully and easily stored in our wall-mounted hose reel.
  5. Sun Protection - I can not stress enough the importance of protecting your skin from the sun. According to The American Society for Dermatological Surgery skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States. More than 3.5 million skin cancers in over 2 million people are diagnosed annually. There is no such thing as a safe tan, even if you tan easily without burning. I never leave the house without sunscreen, my sun hat, and my sunglasses. I use the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist Sunscreen. It goes on easily and is non-greasy (which I love). It also has a very unique handle set-up making it easy for me to spray my back. I use, year-round, Neutrogena Age Face Lotion on my face. It goes on smoothly and works great alone or under make-up.
  6. Hay Nets - Some equestrians swear by hay nets and some will not use them. That discussion can wait for another day. I use them because we have so much grass that our horses, when stalled, really don't need to be filling their faces with hay. Of course, it isn't safe to allow a horse to go for long periods of time without food so I feed them good quality hay in a slow-feeder hay net. It keeps them occupied and their digestive system full without allowing them to gorge.
  7. Pestle and Mortar - I know not everyone will need a pestle and mortar. We do because our cute, little Shetland has Cushings and needs daily medication. Originally, I was breaking up the medicine and mixing it in with her low-carbohydrate feed but after a while, she decided she didn't want to eat it anymore. So, now, the only way to ensure she gets the correct amount of medicine is to pulverize it into a powder, mix it with water, and administer it, orally, with a syringe. I couldn't do this without our pestle and mortar.
  8. Footwear - I absolutely love my Ariat H2O boots. They are the most comfortable footwear I have ever owned. I wear them every day. They are made of soft, durable leather that is also waterproof. I wear them around the barn and also ride in them. The sizes run big so I recommend you get a ½ size smaller than you usually wear.
  9. Water Container - According to healthline.com the average adult should consume 8 x 8oz glasses of water daily to prevent dehydration. This amount increases drastically in hot conditions. I am not only an equestrian but also an advocate for reusing and recycling as much as possible. I do not purchase bottled water. Instead, I use our delicious well water and carry it to the barn with me in my Yeti Rambler. I add ice first then fill it up and it keeps my water cold all-day-long no matter how hot the weather gets.
  10. Shaving Fork - How annoying is it when the tines on your shaving fork break rendering it useless? I was lucky enough to stumble upon The Forever Fork four years ago. Yes, that's right. I have been using the same shavings fork for four years and it's still going strong. I have banged it, accidentally, against the wall more times than I care to remember. Horses and children have knocked it over. I have even run over it with the trailer I use to collect manure and it still didn't break. I can not emphasize enough how amazing this product is. It is more expensive than a regular fork and worth every single penny.
  11. Schooling Tights - When the weather is hot and sticky it can be less appealing to ride. But, ride we must. Whether for pleasure or to achieve a goal it is important to keep ourselves and our horses in the best condition possible. My go-to riding pants for summer are Kerrits Ice Fil Tec Tight. They are comfortable, flexible, and breathable.
  12. Gate Latches - There are so many different gate latches available these days it's difficult to know where to start. I've tried a few and always come back to the Tough-1 Qwikee Gate Latch. They are easy to install and, if positioned high enough, easy to open and close while riding on the trails. We have them on all our gates.

I hope you have found this list interesting and informative. What are some of your must-have equestrian products?

This list mostly applies to the summer months. I will write another blog later in the year to include winter items.

Disclaimer: We do not warranty any of these companies or products. These are items we use/have used and find them suitable for our needs. You should research these products before purchasing them. We are not sponsored by any of the aforementioned companies or products. These products have been bought by us for our own use. The links are affiliate links.

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Riding Club Points after the June 2018 Show

riding clubWe had another very successful Fun Show here at White Rose Equestrian today. Thank you to all the parents who put trust in us and support our shows. Showing is so much more than winning ribbons. By allowing your kids to show you are giving them an opportunity to put into practice what they learn in lessons. It gives them the change to figure out what works and it greatly improves their riding and confidence.

Riding Club Points for this Show are as Follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 70 1
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra 37 2
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 36.5 3
 Kayleigh Beckemeyer / White Rose Moonfire 36 4
 Isabella Hendricks / White Rose Sweet Pocket Full of Sunshine 28.5 5
 Lena Davis / White Rose Buttercup 28 6

riding clubWith some of our riders unable to attend the show today, we had a big shake-up of the leaderboard. I don't like to put too much emphasis on the overall points. Our motto at White Rose Equestrian is that showing should be fun but it is also good to be competitive. It makes you strong and determined and those are good traits that will help you throughout your life.

Riding Club Points for the show season so far are as follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 169 1
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants 154.5 2
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 121 3
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra 104 4
 Kayleigh Beckemeyer / White Rose Moonfire 80 5
 Lena Davis / White Rose Buttercup 72.5 6

We are always welcoming new riders. Our next Fun Show is July 14th.

Come out and show with us!

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Riding Club Points after the May 2018 Show

Riding Club PointsOur May show was a great success. Thank you to everyone who came out to support us and brave the extremely hot weather. As always our riders worked hard, competed well, and supported each other.

Once again we had Divine Horse Mobile Tack store here with a large selection of equipment and apparel. We were also lucky to have delicious food at a concession stand provided by the grandma of one of our riders.

Riding Club Points for this Show are as Follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 63 1
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants 57 2
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 33 3
 Kayleigh Beckemeyer / White Rose Moonfire 26.5 4
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra 26 5
 Maddie Rominger / White Rose Moonfire 19 6

Riding Club PointsAbbygale and Escapade Fancy Pants are still in the lead but Sophia and White Rose Rubydoo are slowly catching up. Don't forget that at the end of the show season we have a party and recognize all our riders.

Riding Club Points for the show season so far are as follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants 154.5 1
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 99 2
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 84.5 3
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra 67 4
 Maddie Rominger / White Rose Moonfire 52.5 5
 Isabel Mejia / White Rose Rubydoo 46 6

We are always welcoming new riders. Our next Fun Show is June 9th.

Come out and show with us!

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Riding Club Points After the April Show

White Rose Fun Show
© Diamond M. Photography

We had a very successful fun show here at White Rose Equestrian yesterday. The weather was perfect and our competitors worked hard. I have to mention that we have a great group of Riding Club Members. They are all so supportive of each other.

We were also lucky to have Montana Canter of Montana Canter Photography taking pictures of our competitors. If you would like to order pictures taken at the show please reach out to her via one of the above links.

We also had a mobile tack store provided by Divine Horse Tack. You can buy from them online or their store that will open this summer on Congress Street in York, SC.

I know you are all eager to see who earned the most points.

Riding Club Points for this Show are as Follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants 63.5 1
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 36 2
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sierra  36 2
 Savannah Lewis / Mason 32.5 4
 Maddie Rominger / White Rose Moonfire 23 5
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 23 5
White Rose Fun Show
© Diamond M. Photography

This show also shook up the overall leaderboard. Abbygale and Escapade Fancy Pants have a very impressive lead but other riders still have a chance to catch up with her at upcoming shows. The trick is to show as often and in as many classes as possible.

Riding Club Points for the show season so far are as follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants 97.5 1
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra 51.5 2
 Isabel Mejia / White Rose Rubydoo  46 3
 Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra 41 4
 Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo 36 5
 Maddie Rominger / White Rose Moonfire 33.5 6

We are always welcoming new riders. Our next Fun Show is May 12th.

Come out and show with us!

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Riding Club Points After the March Show

20180310_094540We have our first Fun Show of 2018 under our belt and it was a great success as usual. The weather was unseasonably very cold but we still had a very good turnout. Our established riders did well and our new riders learned what it's like to participate in a horse show.

All competitors who join our Riding Club are eligible to collect points at every show throughout the season. These points are tallied at the end of the year and the riders with the most points are recognized.

Riding Club Points for this Show are as Follows:

Rider POINTS POSITION
 Isabel Mejia / White Rose Rubydoo  46  1
 Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants  34  2
 Macy Schott / White Rose Fandango  29  3
 Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra  28.5  4
 Kayleigh Beckemeyer / White Rose Sweet Sierra  24  5
 Isabella Hendricks / White Rose Sweet Sierra  22.5  6

Our next show is April 14th, please join us!

As always I must thank all the volunteers. It takes a great deal of time and effort to pull together, even a small, fun show and I couldn't do it without the help of a small, dedicated army. If you would like to volunteer at any of our events please let us know.

Click here to see more photos of the show.

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Things Your Barn Manager Will Never Say

Horse in the snowI know most of my horsey friends in North Carolina are well and truly fed up with the winter weather. Especially those of us on the front lines who take care of the manual labor of looking after the horses.

The winter of 2017/18 has been one of the coldest on record for the southern United States. Our northern neighbors like to mock us when we complain about the weather but we just don't have the infrastructure to cope with it for days on end.

The extreme cold makes everyday chores take much longer than usual and require more physical strength. If you board your horse please take a few minutes to thank your barn manager and barn hands for their hard-work in all weather conditions.

So, as we patiently wait for a thaw from this frozen tundra here is a lighthearted look at some things your barn manager will never say, in winter.

  1. Oh good a snow day.
  2. I love freezing weather.
  3. Breaking ice off of water troughs is my most favorite thing to do.
  4. Mucking out twice, and sometimes three times, in a day is awesome.
  5. Going through twice as much hay because the horses are in all day makes me so happy.
  6. I love it when the ends of my fingers turn blue, it really sets off my perfectly manicured nails.
  7. Dragging water to the barn in coolers is so much fun.
  8. I wish it would snow again.
  9. Changing blankets every five minutes because the temps keep changing helps to tone my biceps.
  10. I can't wait to ride my bi-polar mare, who's been standing in her stall for days.
  11. I think I'll call in sick today.
  12. I wish the weather could stay like this forever.

Taking care of horses is a labor of love and looking forward to spring is what is currently keeping me going.

We'd love to hear from you. Let us know some of the things your barn manager never says in winter and follow us on Facebook.

White Rose Equestrian is a small, private, full-service equestrian facility located in Iron Station, NC. 

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Riding Club Positions after our Fifth Show

fun showOn Saturday, October 28th, we had our fifth and final Fun Show of the season. We had a great turnout and we are very grateful to everyone who has supported our show series this year.

I normally post a list of points scored and who won the points for the show. I will not be doing that this time as I would like the overall points for the year to be a surprise at the end-of-season party (date, location, and time to be confirmed). I will say that Deana had the most points of the day and will be a big contender in next year's show season.

fun show costume classI would also like to say what a fantastic job everyone did in the costume class. We had an outstanding turnout and the costumes were well thought out and some, very unique.

We have a fantastic barn family here at White Rose Equestrian. The parents, family, and friends of our riders are always willing to help out on show days and we very much appreciate that.

Thank you for your support throughout the season. We look forward to a fun party and an amazing 2018 show season.