This blog isn't really intended for equestrians as we already know and understand that time spent at the barn is very different from time spent anywhere else. This post is meant to help the partners and friends of equestrians who don't understand why a quick trip to the barn can take a good few hours.
Sadly, barn time isn't some quirky time loop that allows us to gain back the numerous hours we spend with our equine friends. It is, however, a vital part of our life that can not be overlooked or underestimated.
In order to understand how barn time works you must, firstly, understand why it is important.
Why Barn Time is Important
I have heard so many people say that the time they spend at the barn is therapeutic. Here at White Rose Equestrian, it is very important that our barn is tranquil and drama free. We have a wonderful barn family who is caring and supportive of each other and for that, I am very grateful.
Being outside and close to nature also helps. Even when the weather isn't cooperating, most horsey people would still rather be outside. It gives a sense of freedom and connection to the earth.
And of course, we can't overlook the calming nature of our equine partner. Horses are majestic, trusting, noble, and know how to keep secrets. The act of caring for another living being is also very rewarding and cathartic.
So, now you know why barn time is so important to us let me try and explain how it works.
How Barn Time Works
How many times have you heard the words, "I'm just nipping to the barn," and know that it means you won't see your significant other for at least two hours (probably more)? Many times I would imagine. You are not alone.
No two days at the barn are ever exactly alike so it is difficult to accurately describe how hours can slip by unnoticed but I will attempt to explain an average trip to the barn.
Arrive and pull our horse out of the field or stable. Tell him how wonderful he is and how much we've missed him as we secure him in the cross-ties. Carefully overlook him to check for lumps, bumps, cuts, and any other mishap he might have managed to get into since we last saw him.
Give him a treat as we begin our regular grooming routine. Pay particular attention to his beautiful face as we meticulously follow the direction of hair growth with the softest brush we own. Detangle his mane and tail applying the more-expensive-than-gold but must-have Cowboy Magic Detangler. Pick-out his feet and apply hoof oil. All the while we are talking to our best friend about our day, our life, our problems. His kind eye and inquisitive ears make everything feel better.
Now it is time to ride. Tack-up slowly, methodically, taking care to make sure our companion is comfortable and happy.
The ride is the highlight of our day. It fills us with comfort, lowers our blood pressure, releases the tensions of everyday life, makes everything feel good again.
Inevitably, it is over too quickly. We untack with the same precision as all your other tasks. Another treat and a quick rub down. In summer we spend a fun time rinsing ourselves and our partner with fresh, cool water.
Our two-legged barn friends are interested in how our ride went so we swap notes and experiences. We take advantage of this time to carefully clean and supple our tack ready for the next time we will be able to squeeze in some barn time.
Maybe our tack trunk needs tidying, or we decide our horse just has to have a bath, or decide to spend just a little more time with our ride and hand-walk him around the greenest parts of the barn. He is grateful and we are content.
All this time we have never once looked at our watch or the barn clock. Time is irrelevant. As we leave we are already looking forward to the next time we can visit the barn.
How do you like to spend your time at the barn?
This post is written from the perspective of someone who boards their horse and visits the barn a few times a week.
I am currently out of the country on family business and have no idea how long I will be gone. As I take one day at a time here, my horses are sitting around at home getting fat. So, I have decided to write a blog about how I plan to bring my horses back into work.
I have been trying to keep myself fit by walking every day but it's not been easy. It is important, no matter what discipline you ride, for your horse to be fit enough to perform adequately without causing him injury. You wouldn't run a marathon without training. Your horse shouldn't be expected to give lessons, canter for an extended period of time, or jump around a course if he has had a few weeks off. Not only is it sensible to bring your horse back into work slowly it could also save money on vet bills.
Each horse is different and training programs should be too. Take into account the age, current condition, health, and expectations of your horse before beginning a training program. You should also consider your own fitness, time available to you, and your climate.
Before you embark on your fitness regimen, make sure that your horse is sound and healthy. Check with your veterinarian if your horse is recovering from an injury.
Start Your Exercise Routine
Start slowly with walking and maybe some trotting. Gradually increase either distance or speed, but never both at the same time. Make sure he is moving forward and lifting his back. Do exercises at each gait that improve flexibility and strength. For example, simple lateral work, transitions, and circles. This also helps to keep you and your horse interested while you also increase the workload.
Be sure to keep track of every time you ride. Wear a watch and note exactly what you do each time. Every ride counts. Even slow work can build stamina and muscles. You can keep a journal or use an app. I like Equilab. It allows you to track each time you ride, if necessary, multiple horses. It tracks how much time you spend at each gait and the total length of time you ride. It's a great tool to help you.
Gradually increase the length of your rides or the length of time you ride at faster gaits. You are your horse's personal trainer. Your horse might need some encouragement to increase the workload each time. Be firm but careful not to push him before he is physically ready. Unless you are very fit already you will also have to work hard.
The length of time you spend at each gait and the rate by which you increase it will need to be customized to each horse. Make sure your horse is well shod or had a recent trim. Whenever possible, ride in a soft (but not too soft) riding arena.
Sample Program to Bring your Horse Back into Work
This program is designed for a horse that has been regularly turned out and walked in hand for a few days prior to the beginning. It is intended that you will ride between four and six times per week. If you are short of time you can add lunging to your program as it can be quicker than riding.
Week 1: 30 minutes per ride with 5 minutes trotting Week 2: 30 minutes per ride with 10 minutes trotting Week 3: 40 minutes per ride with 15 minutes trotting Week 4: 40 minutes per ride with 20 minutes trotting and 5 minutes cantering Week 5: 40 minutes per ride with 20 minutes trotting and 10 minutes cantering
This program is a good beginning and can be built on. However, for some horses, this will be too aggressive, and they would need to go even slower. A good way to monitor your horse's fitness level is to take his pulse. An average horse's heart rate is between 32 - 36 beats per minute. Make a note of his heart rate before and after your workouts. After working, a horse's heart rate should return to normal within 15 minutes. If your horse's pulse is still elevated after 30 minutes of rest, the workout was too much for him. You should cut back and slowly work back up again. Body soreness, resistance, pinned ears, and other signs of pain may also indicate that your horse is working too hard.
The best way to ensure you and your horse are progressing at a suitable pace is to work with an experienced trainer. They can give advice and suggest movements to add to your routine.
Disclaimer: Always consult your vet if you have any concerns. This blog can not replace the advice of a veterinary or trainer who works directly with you and your horse.
Six Non-Riding Exercises to Improve your Seat in the Saddle
As a rider, you are always looking for ways to improve your seat and use the subtle changes in your balance and posture to affect your horse. Many improvements come from riding regularly with an experienced trainer but you can also use exercises to improve your balance, coordination, and flexibility when you aren't in the saddle.
Six Easy and Quick Exercises to Improve your Seat
1. Calf Extensions
The problem - How many times have you been told to, 'put your heels down'? Even experienced riders can overlook this very fundamental rule of riding. However, forcing your heels down is not the answer as this causes tension in your legs and knees that will inadvertently transfer to your seat and cause your horse to tighten up his back and lose impulsion.
The solution - Your whole leg needs to be relaxed and flexible while riding. To stretch the calf muscles stand on the edge of a step with just the balls of your feet on the step, facing upward. Very gently bounce your body weight a few times to stretch the muscles in your calves. You could build this into a daily workout or do it for a few seconds every now and then when you go upstairs.
The results - When your hips, knees, and ankles are relaxed and your calf muscles sufficiently flexible, your heels with naturally hang down slightly lower than your toes. This will allow you to maintain a soft seat and stretch your entire leg, wrapping it softly around the barrel of your horse.
2. Ab Curls
The problem - I'm sure your trainer uses the term, 'use your core'. A strong but subtle core is invaluable for slowing and re-balancing your horse. If your core muscles are weak that can result in you feeling heavy and unbalanced to your horse which in turn makes him reluctant to move forward freely.
The solution - Using a yoga mat, rug, or carpet, lie flat on the floor. Raise your knees slightly and part your feet. Place your hands behind your head with your palms upright. Contract your ab muscles and slowly raise your upper body until your shoulder blades are no longer touching the mat. To start with you will probably only be able to do a few but with regularity and practice, you will improve your core strength and gradually be able to add more repetitions.
The results - A strong core will help to make you a stronger more confident rider. You will have more control over your position and balance resulting in a safer and more effective seat.
The problem - Even though we are told to ride with a soft relaxed leg, we still need to be able to count on our leg muscles to respond within a nanosecond whenever we need them. Weak leg muscles make our leg aids ineffective and also cause unbalance in our seat and upper body.
The solution - Stand with your legs slightly apart. Keeping your back straight and your body weight over your feet, slowly bend your knees. You can hold onto the back of a chair if you need support. Go down as far as you feel comfortable. The ultimate goal is to get all the way down into a squatting position but this will come with practice.
The results - The extra strength in your legs will allow you to sit quietly but give you the ability to use your leg aid efficiently and effectively.
The problem - Weak leg muscles make it difficult to apply sufficient pressure with your leg aids. Squats, as described above, will help but do not cover all your leg muscles.
The solution - Lunges exercise the muscles that squats miss. Keep your upper body straight with your shoulders relaxed, tighten your core and step forward with one leg. Lower your hips until both knees are bent. Bring your back leg forward and repeat by stepping with the opposite leg.
The results - Well-muscled legs will make it easier to apply leg aids without compromising your seat.
5. Bicep and Triceps Curls
The problem - Although most of your hand aids should be subtle you still need to have strength in your arms otherwise your horse could take advantage of you and lean on the bit making him heavy in your hands and on the forehand.
The solution - Bicep Curl - Stand with your upper body straight and a weight in each hand at arm's length. Bend your elbows and bring the weights up toward your shoulders. Hold them in position for a couple of seconds before slowly lowering them down again. Tricep Curls - Hold a weight in both hands and lift it above your head. Allow your hands to drop down behind your head until your arms are nearly straight. Bend your elbows allowing the weight to drop further down. Straighten your arms again and repeat.
The results - Strong, well-toned arms will make many chores around the barn easier and will also help with upper-body strength and coordination. This will result in a stronger more confident seat.
6. Shoulder stretches
The problem - Another term that trainers like to use is, 'put your shoulders back'. Unless you walk a catwalk for a living I'm pretty sure you don't walk around with your shoulders back and chest extended. Hunched shoulders, while riding, cause you to tip forward, resulting in your upper body being out of balance with the horse.
The solution - Stand in a doorway. Raise your arms out to the sides. Bend your elbows with your palms facing forward. Place the palms of your hands on the door frame and lean slightly forward putting gentle pressure onto your hands. You should feel a stretch in your chest muscles.
The results - Relaxed shoulders and an open chest result in a solid upper body position and a more pleasing overall appearance. They also help to maintain a level, balanced posture.
All exercise routines take repetition and determination to implement but once in place will become part of your normal everyday habits. These exercises, if done regularly, should help to improve your balance, coordination, flexibility, and seat.
I also like these two devices for improving balance
The Wood Wobble Balance Board is a fun aid to improve your balance and coordination. It is more difficult than it looks but with regular use can improve your balance and posture.
I love the Humantool Saddle Chair. It is a workout that not only improves your balance but also strengthens your core. You can use it as part of your daily workout or sit on it at your desk or the dinner table.
Consult a doctor before implementing any changes in your exercise routine.
What Does Taking Horseback Riding Lessons Teach Your Child?
If you've read the title of this blog you might be thinking that the answer is taking horseback riding lessons teaches my child how to ride a horse. And, of course, you would be correct. But, it does so much more too.
Maybe your child is obsessed with horses and talks about them all the time. Or perhaps you used to ride as a child and think your child would enjoy the experience also. It could be, that your child has been riding for a while. As they make progress they will also be learning some very important life skills.
There are some obvious benefits of doing any sport. Improved motor skills, balance, coordination, increased muscle tone and improved fitness in general.
Horseback riding also means your child gets to spend time outdoors in all seasons. This is more important today than ever. More and more kids are obsessed with video games, TV, and smartphones. Our barn is a non-electronic zone. Other than taking photos and videos and occasionally playing music I do not allow our riders to play on their phones. To be fair, there are so many other things to keep them busy it is very rare any of them even want to.
Handling and controlling a thousand-pound animal is not to be taken lightly. We strive to educate our riders in the correct technique. I can not count how many times I have encountered a new rider who is nervous about being around the horse to find in a few short months they are capable and enjoy catching, leading, grooming, and tacking up their horse.
In our summer camps, we also teach our campers the daily routine of a barn. The correct way to feed and care for a horse, and our cats, dog, and chickens too. This includes mucking stalls, the importance of cleaning feed and water buckets, daily feeding of feed and hay, grooming, tack care, and so much more. Looking after another living being fosters empathy and compassion.
Occasionally, even the most seasoned, lesson horse can have a bad day. Riders learn patience and perseverance. Nothing is gained if you push a horse past its limit or lose your temper if things aren't going the way you want. There are no shortcuts. It is important to do it right in a methodical manner. Riding a living being with a mind of its own is a great way to learn this.
I get as much pleasure out of seeing my riders succeed as I do from my own success. Mastering a new skill improves confidence. I love to see a smile on a rider's face when they realize that hard work pays off.
The last point might be a bit controversial. I tell my riders to put on their bossy britches. I explain how horses live naturally in a herd. The social structure and pecking order. Some riders struggle with the concept that they must be at the top of that pecking order. Being in charge does not mean you should be mean. But you shouldn't allow the horse to think he is in charge either. As in life, it is important to know when it is necessary and how to stand up for yourself.
What else do you feel horseback riding lesson teach?
2018 seems so far away now and so much has happened since then. We should have had an end of season party and awards ceremony but sadly due to a very sad personal issue in my life, that didn't happen. I am enormously grateful for all our kind, patient, understanding riders and parents. Not one single person complained. Thank you so much.
So, even though we won't be having an award ceremony it is only fair to acknowledge the overall winners of the 2018 show season. Congratulation to everyone.
Riding Club Championship Points for the 2018 show:
Sophia Eaton / White Rose Rubydoo
Abbygale Hamilton / Escapade Fancy Pants
Riley Hughes / White Rose Sweet Sierra
Michayla Belus / White Rose Sweet Sierra
Kayleigh Beckemeyer / White Rose Moonfire
Maddie Rominger / White Moonfire
Anyone who paid a riding club membership fee in 2018 does not need to pay again for the 2020 show season.
We are looking forward to a fun and exciting show season this year and always welcome new riders. Our upcoming shows can be found here.
It's January 2020 and instead of having a winter we are living through what feels like a monsoon. With temperatures in the sixties and rain, almost every day our property has turned into a mud farm!
One good thing is that the horses don't seem to care. We are fortunate enough to have enough land that they can still go out each day. They are enjoying wallowing and rolling to the point that it's difficult to tell what color they are anymore.
We have been actively working to combat the enormous amounts of mud being generated as a result of the ground being completely saturated.
Our gateways have a generous layer of crushed rock to make them dryer and easier to navigate.
I regularly re-dig drainage channels to allow run-off water to drain as quickly as possible.
I also make sure the horses have plenty of time to completely dry between their excursions and regularly check for signs of rain rot.
As much as I wish it would dry up I am very comfortable working outside in this weather as I make sure I am suitably dressed. I couldn't do it without my Tilley hat, oil skin riding coat, or waterproof Ariat boots.
What are some products that you can not live without when tending to your mud farm?
Seven Ideas of What to Buy Your Horse For Christmas
Christmas is right around the corner and if you are anything like me you will have been procrastinating since the beginning of fall about when you were actually going to start your Christmas shopping.
Time is running out and I know one of the most important 'people' on your list is your horse. Yes, we buy stuff for him all year round but we HAVE to splash out on 'special stuff' at Christmas time. To help you decide, and also save you some money, here are seven simple ideas of what to buy your horse for Christmas. Some of them could also be used as gifts for your other horse-crazy friends.
New brushes to replace the worn-out ones in his grooming box. Don't forget to make sure they are color coordinated with all his other important accessories.
A heated bucket to stop his water from freezing. Not only does it make your life easier but a horse who drinks warmed water during cold weather is less likely to colic.
A Jolly Ball for him to play with while he's stuck in his stall during inclement weather.
Horses, just like people, can benefit enormously from a Magna Wave PEMF treatment. It works on a cellular level to help the body heal itself and relieve pain quickly and naturally.
To show him how much you really care you could bake him some home-made treats. Not only does it save money but you can be sure you know exactly what he is eating.
You know how photogenic your horse is and how much you like to show him off to your friends. Why not book a photo session for when the weather picks up?
Another good idea would be to buy yourself some lessons. A balanced rider makes for a happy horse.
I hope some of these ideas have helped you. If you have any ideas to share, let us know on our Facebook page.
I recently saw a post in an equestrian group on Facebook asking, how much does it cost to keep a horse for a year? Many people responded. My favorite answer was 'your heart and soul'. That pretty much sums up the life of an equestrian. But, it got me thinking. Horses and the sports that go along with them are, for most of us, far more than a hobby they are a way of life.
I would hazard to guess that not many equestrians know how much they spend annually on their passion. They will know how much they spend on board, farrier, and the vet but don't always take into account clothes, necessary tack, unnecessary extras such as treats, blingy browbands, the latest style of saddle pad, or any other accompaniments that equestrian brands tell us we must have.
Below I have attempted to put together a list of expenses relating to keeping a horse. It shows three varying options. The lower end includes the basics, the middle range covers possible unforeseen expenses, and the latter has all the bells and whistles. I have then averaged out these prices. Of course, I can not include all scenarios and these prices are subject to fluctuation depending on the type of horse, discipline, and location.
I would love to hear your opinions and have some feedback.
Annual Cost to Keep a Horse*
Basic Full Board
Full Board in a
$0 don't take
$2,600 one lesson
$7,800 one lesson and
one trainer ride per
every 6 weeks
every 6 weeks
every 4 weeks
from the best farrier in town
$400 shots and
$500 basic needs
$2,000 basic needs
$6,000 basic needs,
upgrades, plus new
saddle as the horse's
physique has changed
due to training
$500 barn boots,
$2,500 boots, new
$5,000 basics plus
latest fashion trends
$0 do not show
$400 a few local
$8,000 six rated shows
I will admit to being frugal when it comes to spending money so it is possible that these prices are on the low side. No matter what kind of barn you board at, whether or not you show, or how often you buy new clothes, one thing is very clear, the decision to buy a horse should be given a great deal of thought and you must be sure you can afford to cover all your known and unexpected expenses.
How much do you think it costs to keep a horse for a year?
*Prices are per annum based on average prices around the Charlotte, NC area in the summer of 2019 and are subject to change.
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Precaution and common sense should be the key elements whenever you are approaching and handling horses. They are living creatures with a mind and will of their own and should be treated with a firm yet respectful hand. Take care when handling horses in order to keep you, other people, and the horse safe, and to prevent accidents. Consistency also helps the horse to understand his role in the relationship and behave appropriately.
Horses have been domesticated for many years but they still rely on their natural instincts to stay safe. If they feel threatened they will try to run away or, if cornered, can kick or bite to protect themselves. Whenever you are around horses you should be calm, move slowly, and speak softly. Loud or sudden movements or unexpected noise could startle them. Different surroundings or experiences can also cause a horse to become nervous. If this happens pat and stroke him gently and speak calmly and reassuringly to him.
Whenever possible, approach a horse towards his shoulder rather than straight towards his face or from behind. Due to the placement of the horse's eyes on the side of his head, he has a good all-around vision but does have a blind spot directly in front and behind. Let him know that you mean him no harm by walking slowly and talking to him in gentle tones. If he will let you, stroke his neck or shoulder rather than his face or nose.
If he is tied up and must be approached from behind, let him know you are there by talking to him before you approach. Although he can see behind him he does have a blind spot directly behind his rump. NEVER approach a horse directly from behind without first talking to him as he might be snoozing. If you startle him he could kick out in defense. Once he hears you and turns his head and can see you it is usually safe to approach him. Be vigilant and calm at all times.
Some Basic Rule For Correctly Handling Horses
do not run, shout, or make loud noises around horses
remember that some things that we take for granted might seem scary to a horse if he hasn't encountered them before. These can be anything from dogs, chickens, and other unfamiliar animals to balls, children's toys, or items blowing in the wind, etc.
pay attention to where your horse puts his feet. He might accidentally step on your foot and not even realize. You should ALWAYS wear strong, sturdy footwear at the barn and never approach a horse in sandals, flip-flops, or bare feet.
avoid being around the rear of a horse unless you are working on him i.e. grooming, picking out his feet, applying a tail bandage, etc. If you have to be behind a horse use caution and keep one hand on him at all times. If he moves quickly you will not only see this movement but also feel it and be able to act accordingly.
have BOTH feet on the ground at all times (sometime this rule may have to be broken if you are braiding the mane of a tall horse, more about that later). Do not sit or kneel on the ground near a horse as that would make it too difficult to get out of harm's way should the need arise.
do not take food into a field full of horses even if you have a horse who is difficult to catch. If you are surrounded by a group of horses all trying to get to the food you are in a very dangerous position.
when you are handling horses around other people you need to also be aware of their actions and behavior. Politely show them how to behave and act in order to keep everyone safe.
How to Catch a Horse
Some horses are easier to catch than others and some are almost impossible to catch. For the purpose of this explanation, we will assume that the horse is reasonably easy to catch. (We will cover in a later blog series how to retrain a horse that is difficult to catch). One way to avoid ending up with a horse that is difficult to catch is to ensure that you catch your horse for reasons other than work. Catch him, from time to time, just to groom him or give him a treat and he will be far more likely to come to you in the field.
Enter the field calmly but with purpose. Walk towards your horse's shoulder, rather than his face or hindquarters, and call his name softly. Make sure that he has seen you, then walk up and slip the lead rope around his neck. Pat him gently on the neck or shoulder. With the lead rope still around his neck, carefully put on his halter (see next paragraph). Lead him out of the field making sure to avoid any of the other horses that are in there with him. If there are horses gathered around the gate area use a stern but quiet voice and, if necessary, hand gestures to make them move. Do not lead a horse through a group of other horses as this would put you in a dangerous position. Open the gate wide enough for both of you to get through safely but not wide enough that any other horses could escape. You might want to take someone with you to hold the gate until you feel comfortable doing this alone.
How to Put on A Halter
If a horse is loose in a stall or a field you will need to catch him and put on his halter. To halter a horse stand close to his left shoulder, facing forward. Loosely loop the lead rope around his neck to keep him still. Some halters have a buckle and some have a clasp, therefore, fitting them will be slightly different depending on which kind you are using.
Using a Halter With a Buckle
Standing near the horse's left shoulder and facing forwards, hold the halter buckle in your left hand and the crown-piece (strap) in your right hand. Reach under his neck with your right hand and guide his nose carefully into the noseband. Pass the crown-piece over the top of his poll and attach it to the buckle on his left cheek.
Using a Halter With a Clasp
Standing near the horse's left shoulder and facing forwards, make sure the clasp is open on the halter. Guide his nose into the noseband and gently lift the crown-piece over his ears, one at a time. Reach under his chin for the clasp and attach it to the ring on the left side of his cheek.
How to Lead and Turn a Horse at Walk and Trot Up In Hand
You should always use a halter and lead rope to lead a horse unless he is bridled. Never lead him by holding onto the halter. If something goes wrong and you let go he could run off and endanger himself or others or he could drag you off balance causing you injury.
A horse should be accustomed to being led from either side but the most accepted way to lead a horse is from the left (near side). The lead rope should be attached to the center 'O' ring under the horse's jaw. Hold the lead rope, in your right hand, close to the ring but DO NOT put your hand on the ring or your finger through it. Hold the remaining lead rope folded in your left hand. DO NOT wrap any of the lead rope around any parts of your body.
Ask your horse to walk on by standing near his left shoulder facing the direction you wish to go. Say 'walk on' and start to move. Most horses will oblige and start to walk. If he does not walk do not be tempted to get ahead of him or start pulling on his head. Carry a crop in your left hand and, reaching back behind you, tap him gently on this flanks. If you don't have a crop with you, you can use the loose end of the lead rope. You should continue to look ahead and remain next to his shoulder. Once he starts to walk make sure that your right arm is outstretched so as to keep him at arm's length preventing him from stepping on you by accident.
To turn a horse you are leading, whenever possible, turn him away from you. Steady him by putting a little pressure on the halter by pulling very slightly on the lead rope. Move your right arm further away from you and move him to the right. Stay at his shoulder. By turning him this way he is more likely to stay in balance than if you pulled him towards you. He is also less likely to step on you as he turns.
To make him trot do the same as you did to make him walk. Stay next to his shoulder, say 'trot on' and start to jog. If he does not move into the trot use the crop behind your back with a gentle tap on his flanks. The lead rope should be slack enough to allow him to carry the weight of his head naturally but not so slack that he, or you, might get your legs caught up in it.
Leading and trotting a horse up in hand, along with standing a horse up (see next section) is usually done without a saddle for either a veterinary inspection, for someone considering buying the horse, or for a judge at a show. The horse should be able to move freely and confidently but not hurried or unbalanced. If you need to lead a horse in an unfamiliar setting it would be best to put him in a bridle, instead of a halter, which would give you more control. It is usual to walk a horse away from the person inspecting it and then directly back towards them. They should move out of your way allowing you to pass by them. They will then usually ask you to do the same in trot.
How to Stand a Horse Up Correctly
The term standing a horse up simply means he is standing still, looking attentive, and showing his conformation to the best advantage. He should stand square. This means his front legs and back legs should be next to each other with his weight evenly distributed between all four legs. If he isn't standing squarely move him forwards slightly and stop again until he is. You should stand in front of him facing his head so that you don't obstruct the view of the person looking at him. If he is wearing a halter place one hand on each side of the noseband with the end of the lead rope in your left hand. If he is bridled hold one rein in each hand near to the bit. Raise your elbows slightly so that he doesn't try to nibble your wrists.
How to Hold a Reasonably Quiet Horse for Treatment, Shoeing, or Clipping
No matter how often your horse has been tied and expected to remain in one place there may come a time when you have to hold him for some reason. Whatever the reason, the most important thing is that you and the horse are both secure and safe.
Holding a Horse for Treatment
If your horse needs to be treated by a vet, the best thing to do is to listen carefully and follow their instructions. However, you know your horse and you might want to suggest that they treat him either in the stable or out of the stable depending on whichever he prefers. If you think he might be difficult to control it would be best to put him in a bridle instead of a halter. Do not tie him up. If you are using a halter and lead rope you could thread the lead rope through the Equi-Ping™ or breakable string but do not tie it, not even with a quick release knot. Your horse will probably think he is tied up but it still gives you the freedom to act should a difficult situation arise. Stand on the same side as the vet, unless they tell you otherwise. Do not, however, get in their way. When the vet has finished the treatment listen carefully to their instructions and be sure to follow them exactly. If they are complicated, write them down.
Holding a Horse for Shoeing
The same as above would apply but it will not always be possible to stand on the same side as the farrier as you might get in his way. If necessary, stand facing the horse as you would when standing him up.
Holding a Horse for Clipping
The same as above. Listen to the person doing the clipping and do as they ask.
How to Tie a Horse Up
The best way to secure a horse is either with a halter and lead rope or with a halter and cross ties. NEVER tie a horse up with a bridle. It is an expensive piece of tack to replace if broken. It can also result in a broken jaw of you tie up to the bit and the horse pulls away suddenly.
Tying Up to a Single Securing Ring
The lead rope should be fastened to the 'O' ring at the back of the noseband. Always use a quick release knot and NEVER tie directly onto the securing ring but instead use an Equi-Ping™ or breakable string (bailing twine works well for this). Although the reason for tying up the horse is to secure him in one place, it is very dangerous if he tries to break free and cannot. He could seriously injure himself in any struggle that might ensue. It is better for him to break loose.
Unless the horse is very trustworthy only tie him up in a stable or another enclosed place. Never tie him to an unsafe object such as a loose fence or thin branch on a tree. The securing ring should be placed high enough so that he cannot get his legs caught over the lead rope. Never tie him to a hay net. (Do not tie the hay net to the breakable string, it should be tied directly to the securing ring). If the horse tends to chew the lead rope either soak it in an unpalatable (but not poisonous) substance or use a chain. If you use a chain the breakable string should be between the chain and the halter not on the securing ring. You wouldn't want your horse to break loose and drag a chain along with him.
Cross-tying is very popular in America and is a means of tying a horse with two lead ropes or chains rather than just one. The horse is positioned between two walls or strong posts about 6 ½ feet apart, with the ropes or chains fastened to the Ds on each side of the halter. In barns where this kind of tying up is common practice, the cross-ties are permanent fixtures. They should always have some kind of Tie Safe™ or quick release mechanism attached to them. Do not use them if they don't. They are often used in grooming or wash stalls as they do not allow the horse to move as much thereby giving you more control. They should always be used if you are transporting a horse in a double trailer without the center partition.
How to Turn a Horse Out in a Field
When you are ready to turn your horse out into the field lead him there in either a halter or bridle. Usher away any horses that might be standing at the gate. Open the gate wide enough for you both to pass through safely. Make sure you close and latch the gate behind you. Walk him a little way into the field and turn around to face the gate. By doing this he will have to turn around before he can run into the field to join the other horses. If you let him go while he is facing into the field he could run over you by mistake in his haste to join his friends. If there is more than one of you turning horses out, make sure you all let go of them at the same time. If you do not follow this simple rule you could be dragged along if your horse tries to run off before you have let him go.
Whenever you are around or handling horses safety is of the utmost importance. By following the rules above you should be able to enjoy your time at the barn and around horses and ponies.
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